Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Tupper
Page Views: 214 total · 3/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Aug 3, 2013
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Will most likely be done in two pitches.

The first pitch is 12c power through a bulge to enduro face above leads to first set of anchors. 65 feet.

Second pitch (5.11c) follows up sustained face climbing through a very aesthetic headwall finish through a thin seam. Bring a small selection of wires and single cams from finger to tight hands to finish out. The "fixed" Leeper-Z fell out on an attempt in 2015 but it should still take gear just fine. 110' foot pitch if done as a single push from the ground.

Location

First route from left on the Renegade overhangs wall, start in a corner/seam through blocky terrain to a right-facing horn. Get your self together now cause here's the business.

Protection

First pitch has 6 bolts and one fixed draw.

14 bolts if done in one long pitch (use a 70m rope)

wires and set of cams from fingers to tight hands

Photos

Doug Hearon
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Doug Hearon   Albuquerque, New Mexico
Just a heads up, it says that it is 12 pitches and 130 feet. Surely a typo! Oct 21, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Corrected Oct 21, 2013
Ian Donnelly
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
Ian Donnelly   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
How hard is the second pitch? Oct 14, 2014
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
Its only 11c past the first set of anchors, stay left in the crack (gear needed), can be done with a single 70m in one pitch. Oct 15, 2014
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
The direct finish goes at around 5.12. From the stance where the thin crack breaks out left to the anchors of Endurance (mentioned above as Jumpers to Endurance) continue up to a fixed cable (no biner) and a stance. Either bust straight up probably 5.13 or traverse right across the ledge to a good rest. Climb up the arete, clip the last bolt and make hard (5.12 ish) somewhat committing moves to the anchors.

With some cleaning, and perhaps some bolt re-location the direct finish could be a pretty good line. It might clean up to avoid the rightwards traverse and turn out really good. Aug 24, 2015