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Routes in Main Wall

32 Flavors S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
40-Love S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Thousand Yards of Drift (just the start) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
A Thousand Yards of Drift (the whole route) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Big City Girl S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Block of Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Centipede S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Centipede-Lower S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
City Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crispy the Renegade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Endurance S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
False Hope S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Fire on The Mountain S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frogger S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Galaga S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gauntlet S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Legend of the Fall ("LRP" Variant) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Pull S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Look Reach Pull S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lower Tempest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mortal Kombat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pull to Live S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Renaissance Man T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Renaissance/ Lower Rosie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ring Around The Rosie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeeze Whiz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standing on the Edge of Extinction S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tempest S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tupper-Where S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Urban Legend S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
We Were Jumpers Once and Young S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
We Were Jumpers to Endurance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Whole Lotta Rosie T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Mike Tupper
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Aug 3, 2013
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

High first and second bolt but only 4th class climbing to reach them.

Traverse right at second bolt to wide crack then eventually back onto face to below roof. At crux bulge, reach far left under roof to a good hold and some powerful movement up to bolted crack section. 15-foot runout at top on 5.7 ground to reach anchors.

  • * At the crux-reach-left, dont clip the bolt in the roof bulge (that is for the direct variation "Legends...") unless you have a long sling. It will be tempting but will shut you down if you only use a quickdraw on it. If you do, you might as well finish on "Legends...". Most people will, I suspect.
  • ***Shorter-reach people will have trouble with the long crux move left but can use an even more powerful gaston intermediate to help with the reach. Im 6' tall with a slight negative AI and had to use the gaston move.

Location

First route you come to, north end of Shack.

Protection

11 bolts to anchor

Photos

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Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Jean De Lataillade pulled off a large block on one of the early ascents of this route from the upper easy section just below the anchor. Took a 30'+ whipper! The block had been overlooked by the FA party and a couple ascents thereafter. It was just sitting there waiting for the unsuspecting micro-tug.

Be careful! When in doubt, at any crag, use a GriGri(or SUM) and a helmet and belay close to the wall. Aug 15, 2013