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Routes in Twin Towers

Chariots on Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Das Rads S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dillinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Caesar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Release the Lions S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Remember 911 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roman Holiday S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roman Road S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speak Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
WMD's and Tinker Toys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Montesanto
Page Views: 2,599 total, 50/month
Shared By: Steve Montesanto on Aug 2, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

1st pitch mostly technical 5.10 punctuated with a couple of easy 5.11 moves along the way. Final move left of the last bolt puts you up and over a small right facing corner onto the base of the upper slab (start of 2nd pitch). 2nd pitch is a low angle romp and goes at around 5.10a with crux at around the 7th bolt. Last 30 feet climbs a fun, easy flake system to the top anchors.

Location

Route goes up giant slab across from the 2 towers. Start just right of the small cave and slightly up the hill. 1 70m rope gets you down in 2 raps. 2 60m ropes get you down in 1 rap but has bad rope drag pulling ropes from bottom.

Protection

1st pitch 10 bolts in 80 ft. 2nd pitch 13 bolts in 115 ft. Bolted anchors and Mussy hooks at top of 1st pitch. 6 glue ins at top of 2nd pitch (these are the anchors put in by the slack liners).

Photos

sara pax
western mass
5.11a/b
sara pax   western mass
5.11a/b
A great route and makes for a fun outing. I linked the whole thing as a single pitch, which was super fun and pretty epic. I only had like 15 draws, but it was easy enough to back clean and and have a few little runouts. There was some rope drag up top, but it wasn't horrible. Apr 18, 2016
Not sure about the rating consensus on the first pitch. I climbed it and seem a little harder than the 12b that is next to it. Second pitch of this route was a blast. It seem like a few of the holds might of broken off on the first pitch. If anyone has a knowledge on that subject let me know, I'm curious. Nov 5, 2015
Craig Thornley
Auburn, California
  5.11a/b
Craig Thornley   Auburn, California
  5.11a/b
Views are indeed awesome. The hollow pillar on the first pitch is a little spooky but rest of pitch is solid and the moves are fun. While second pitch is easier, there are scant handholds! Gotta stand up on those feet. Seeing the six glue-ins at the top gives an interesting perspective on the slack liners. No thanks. Thanks for all the work you put into making this climb enjoyable, Steve. Jan 31, 2015
Checked out the suspect rock today. Yeah, there's been some recent rock that's come off just below the 6th bolt that hollowed out the pillar the bolt was in. Long story short, I moved the bolt down a few feet off pillar and into some solid rock. Beware, you still have to climb the hollow pillar (I don't think it's going anywhere)! Apr 5, 2014
loose block 1/2 way up? Mar 28, 2014
Thanks guys. Makes the upper slab enjoyable and safe. Feb 15, 2014
After some feedback from Jim and others regarding the bolt spacing on the second pitch I decided to add some bolts and lessen the risk of a long cheese grater fall on the slab. Was 8 bolts.....is now 13 bolts in 115 ft of climbing. Feb 3, 2014
jimi thornburg
  5.11a
jimi thornburg  
  5.11a
This route has some fun climbing. Steve really worked hard to clean this route of any loose rock and it's a pleasure to pull on the holds and know they're going to stay. Great views from the belays on top of both pitches. Jan 26, 2014