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Routes in Blue Gramma Cliff

Blue Gramma T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dawn of an Age T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Event Horizon, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C1
Formerly Aided T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Orion's Bow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Price of Evil, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown far left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown far left - II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P3: Danny Parker
Page Views: 1,477 total, 28/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jul 31, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Three pitches on the tower-like feature.

P1) Traverse(5.7) to ledge and follow short c1 tips to fingers up a steep splitter, probably free at mid 5.13. 50'

P2) 5.9, hands. 50'

P3) fist and offwidth splitter to offwidth roof, trick pivot. 40' 5.12

Doing this in a single pitch is the obvious challenge as both "stances" are hanging.

Location

On a tower like feature between Blue Gramma and Newspaper rock

Protection

Blue alien through 5 camalot

Photos

doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Awesome video! thanks for posting it! Feb 28, 2014
slim    
i have driven past this and looked up at it for many years. i always kind of called it the king of the desert for some reason. awesome looking line that welcomes you to the creek. i wondered if anybody had done it, it was such a prominent line. i have no idea why, but i never walked up and looked at it. probably because it is really intimidating looking.

anyway, saw your rope on it (i think it was yours) maybe a year or so ago and it really intrigued me. who was up there checking it out? what;s it like? what did they find up there? thanks for posting it, i like the name. it looks like it would be easy to sit there loafing on the event horizon below that roof. kind of gives me some weird sort of closure! Aug 12, 2013
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Still a project, eh? In the C1 sense that is. Props for getting that roof. Looks knarly. Jul 31, 2013