Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft
FA: Unknown, ACB Griz
Page Views: 705 total · 11/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Jul 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is a great face line that is a mixed route. The first half is pure trad, and the second half is bolted where it needs to be. It is a sweet line on a beautiful face.

Location

Approach as per the Arete Direct. Work straight up the middle of this beautiful, featured face to the mid-anchors, and follow three bolts to more gear placements and on to the top.

Protection

Standard rack with cams to 3". Bolts protect most of the second half of the route. This can be broken into 2 shorter pitches with the mid-way rap anchors.

Photos

David Carey
Morrison, CO
  5.7 R
David Carey   Morrison, CO
  5.7 R
I have been climbing plenty of trad and runout trad routes. If this climb is supposed to be on the face, there is no gear or at least gear I would trust on a fall. Perhaps it was supposed to be climbed in the chimney, but the face moves looked to great. I would say this is a TR route for now. Aug 4, 2014
We sewed it up with RPs and small nuts and felt OK. We first did it in the '80s when we did Black Bra (Arete Direct) and Fancy Free. May 10, 2018