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Routes in Chimney Sweep Wall

Bert S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flue, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Git Wood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soot T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 85 total, 2/month
Shared By: climber73 on Jul 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb up the left side of a small detached pillar at the bottom of the black streak to the right of The Flue. Make tough moves to gain the shallow, right-leaning dihedral, plug gear where needed to get through to the top of the corner, and gain the last 2 bolts prior to reaching the 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This is the third route from the left on Middle Class Wall proper.

Protection

2 bolts at the start, multiple finger and smaller size pieces in the dihedral, 2 bolts on the finishing stretch to the 2 bolt anchor. The gear after pulling into the dihedral could be tough to place on lead.

Photos

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Henry Lester
Boulder, CO
Henry Lester   Boulder, CO
If you go up to the top of the pillar and then up and left rather than straight left at the second bolt, the route is 5.11c. Aug 11, 2013