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Free Cat

5.10d, Sport, TR,  Avg: 2.4 from 11 votes
FA: Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer, and FDC Willard
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lookout Point Area > Hag Crag

Description

An excellent introduction to classic Index face and slab climbing. Highly recommended. 

 Steeper edging at the start (10b/c), then lower-angle friction moves (10c/d) up higher. The crux may be at the transition between the two, when you are trying to get established on the slightly lower-angle friction section. It might be particularly tricky without the stickier rubber. 

If you have trouble at the cruxy transition to friction, pull past the move--the top friction section is quite fun. 

Location

Right of Leeper's corner. The start is just 5-10' left of the start to Hag Crag Crack.

Protection

Five bolts, then a bolted anchor.

You can set up a TR from a new anchor on top of the crag, almost directly above Hag Crack. A directional at the lower anchor helps. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nearing the crux on Free Cat.
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Leeper's Z is the large corner to my left, Hag Crack the first crack to my right. 
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Photo courtesy of Greg Olsen.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the crux on Free Cat. Leeper's Z is the large corner to my left, Hag Crack the first crack to my right. Photo courtesy of Greg Olsen.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The friction crux on this is desperate (but easy to pull through if need be). You then get some super fun pure friction to the top. Clipping the 2nd bolt is a bit spooky.

You can TR this from the 5.7 corner. Jul 31, 2018
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Very fun route. Index-type steep face at the bottom (i.e., edging and smears), and then fun friction at the top.

I noticed chalk marks that stayed to the right of the bolts, though I found it more straightforward to stay more to the left. Jun 4, 2019
IJMayer
Guemes Island, WA
[Hide Comment] despite the moss, the holds you need are free of it. face climbing on edges to a move or two of 10d pure friction, then easier friction to the top. fun on top rope! Aug 26, 2019
Adam Starecheski
Bellingham, WA
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb, great edges. Is clean enough to climb but needs a little scrub to bring it to 100%! Aug 3, 2021