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British Airways

5.12b, Sport, 100 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 14 votes
FA: Ward Smith 7/95
New Hampshire > Rumney > Orange Crush

Description

If Prime Climb is getting bland, add a little spice. British Airways Is a harder, more exposed finish to that popular route. Really fun moves on an amazing feature that ends about 100 ft off the ground.

A long reach will help you gain the arete then some technical foot work and picking the right holds out of the highly featured rock will help you make your way. Save a little juice for the last few feet where the holds get small and the sequence more tricky.

Like many of the routes in this area it is often wet :(

Location

Start on Prime Climb then break left at the hanging block at about 2/3 height to climb a striking arete.

Protection

The book says 13 bolts. I brought more than that (15 I think) and I ran out, having nothing for the anchor. Bring 17 I'd say including the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Marco Lazure in the 11b portion of British Airways. Just before going to the arete where the 12b starts.
[Hide Photo] Marco Lazure in the 11b portion of British Airways. Just before going to the arete where the 12b starts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] Named British Airways as it was originally a project of a certain Brit who was moving away so suggested to Ward that he take it over. "All ready to go!" he said. Ward went up it trying for the onsight but once onto the flying arete found that the bolts were pulling out by hand. Apparently the holes weren't cleaned before installation and the dust had made a slippery slurry when mixed with the water that had seeped in (and maybe not even tightened). Luckily I was up top with a rope looking to set up a TR for another project, so I was able to help out and put him on belay from above. Needless to say, the bolts were all replaced. Jul 30, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] good story and great route! Jul 30, 2013
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I confirm the count of draws you need for this route.
Lee is right, 17 in total if you put two at the anchor.
Such a great climb even if a little dirty.
What do you expect, it's wet half the year.
Jump on it if it's dry! Jun 23, 2014
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
[Hide Comment] The huge block fractured at all corners before the divergence from Prime Climb is horrifying. Jun 19, 2018