Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Presley and Dana Prosser
Page Views: 328 total · 5/month
Shared By: Kevin P on Jul 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is the cool looking corner system to a huge roof.

Climb the crack with some bird droppings and bones. Traverse the roof and fire up to a ledge. The crux for me on the first pitch was pulling around from the traverse to the ledge. I belayed on the ledge since I used my #5 on the first pitch and I didn't want any rope drag issues caused by the huge traverse. For Pitch two, nice hand/fist stacks and thrashing in general will get you to the anchors at the top of the crack. There is lots of poo in the roof traverse, but it can be avoided.

The second pitch is harder than it looks from the ground.

To keep with the Vedauwoo sandbag standards, I should probably rate this 5.9, but realistically it seemed to be in the mid-10 range.

Descent: rap from the two bolt anchor.

Location

It is located right of High Tea For Hookers. Looking South from Plumb Line, you can't miss it and will want to climb it.

Protection

We did this in two pitches. The first pitch took a few hand-size pieces, 3 #4s and a #5. Save a #4 for the final pull out of the traverse. I used 2 #0.75s and #0.5 for the anchor. The offwidth second pitch can be done with a #5 and a #6 or maybe 2 #5s. Lower to the ground, and belay your second from the two bolt anchor.

Photos