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Routes in Mount San Antonio (Mt. Baldy)

Baldy Ski Hut V0- 4-
Commando Couloir III AI2, 800M 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2
Creavature police WI2
Devil's Backbone
Lightning Couloir I AI1 260M AI1
North Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2
Northeast Face
Phoenix Wings WI2-3
Safety Dance AI2
San Antonio Falls T WI1
Ski Hut Boulder Left T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
South Bowl T
Taco Sauce T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3-4 X
Upper South Ridge
West Face
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, 1000 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,020 total, 19/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Jul 28, 2013
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Taco Sauce is a narrow snow, ice, and easy rock couloir that splits a triangular buttress on the far left of Baldy Bowl, directly left of Dostie's Dare. It is critical that one climb this route when temps are very low and the ground is stable. I was soloing it a handful of years ago when the crux pitch dumped a ton of rocks onto me. I was saved when one of my ice tool tethers (not rated to hold anything) held onto me as I fell about a body length or so. My left arm is covered in thin scars from that day. One of the scarier moments I've had climbing. Would've been a much different outcome had both tools blown.

Route starts out as sorta steep typical Baldy Bowl snow, then narrows and steepens up into the buttress. Continues up and gets steeper up an iced up crappy rock step. Step continues for 30ft or so and eases up onto the plateau-ish area above the Bowl.

Note that 1,000ft includes snow climbing. Actual technical section is about 300ft up the center of the eastern 'Triangle Buttress'.

Location

Route is up the left side of the bowl, striaght up the middle of the 'Triangle Buttress'. Descent is via whatever you like, since it tops out atop the Bowl.

Protection

Light rack with stubbies, handful of nuts skipping sizes, and small cams (optional).
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Taco Del Rio......wow, great story. Sorry to learn of the scars/injury, but glad to see you made it down okay. We spent a lot of time exploring those gulleys and towers, above the bowl, in the 80's & 90's, but no blood spilled. Oct 26, 2013