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The Cool Fun Route

4th AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2500 ft (758 m), Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Bozo the Clown
California > Los Angeles Basin > Angeles Nationa… > Mt Baldy Rd > Telegraph Peak

Description

TCFR takes the gully and ridge on the right side of Telegraph's West Face above Cedar Glen Campground, near Icehouse Canyon. This route offers fun easy climbing up a gully, transitioning to a ridge partway up to avoid bushes. The views are great and the climbing fun and easy. It tops out on the seldom visited southern summit of Telegraph, which has some of the best views in the range. You look down into Icehouse Canyon, the north side of Ontario and Cucamonga, as well as out to the city. Really cool position.

Location

The approach and descent are the same as for One Nut Wonder, so check that page for info. The difference is you'll make a right before reaching 1NW, going up an easy gully that eventually kinks left. Essentially you're on the opposite side of the toe of the ridge that 1NW is bordered by. Your map will explain this.

Climb up easy slopes until you have a bunch of foliage blocking the way. Climb easy stuff to the right to gain the ridge, and follow this easy and absolutely beautiful ridge all the way up. Super chill, awesome views, especially if there's any weather.

Protection

Optional. I would go with a couple stubby screws, a really light set of nuts skipping every other size, a long skinny rope, and a couple pickets. Might be a good route to get your team or whatever trained up on pitching out winter alpine routes and getting real efficient with sheltering belays from possible rockfall, and all that good time-saving jazz.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cool views
[Hide Photo] Cool views
Looking back after gaining the ridge
[Hide Photo] Looking back after gaining the ridge
Heading up to the south summit of Telegraph
[Hide Photo] Heading up to the south summit of Telegraph
Weather rolling in, in the gully.
[Hide Photo] Weather rolling in, in the gully.
Starting up the initial gully
[Hide Photo] Starting up the initial gully
The crux of the route, a short ice/rock step up fairly decent rock to exit the gully and gain the ridge.
[Hide Photo] The crux of the route, a short ice/rock step up fairly decent rock to exit the gully and gain the ridge.