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Routes in Telegraph Peak

Cool Fun Route, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 PG13
Northwest Face II AI2-3, 400M T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 PG13
One Nut Wonder II 5.6 AI3, 600m T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 PG13
Type: Ice, Alpine, 2500 ft, Grade II
FA: Bozo the Clown
Page Views: 340 total, 6/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Jul 28, 2013
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

TCFR takes the gully and ridge on the right side of Telegraph's West Face above Cedar Glen Campground, near Icehouse Canyon. This route offers fun easy climbing up a gully, transitioning to a ridge partway up to avoid bushes. The views are great and the climbing fun and easy. It tops out on the seldom visited southern summit of Telegraph, which has some of the best views in the range. You look down into Icehouse Canyon, the north side of Ontario and Cucamonga, as well as out to the city. Really cool position.

Location

The approach and descent are the same as for One Nut Wonder, so check that page for info. The difference is you'll make a right before reaching 1NW, going up an easy gully that eventually kinks left. Essentially you're on the opposite side of the toe of the ridge that 1NW is bordered by. Your map will explain this.

Climb up easy slopes until you have a bunch of foliage blocking the way. Climb easy stuff to the right to gain the ridge, and follow this easy and absolutely beautiful ridge all the way up. Super chill, awesome views, especially if there's any weather.

Protection

Optional. I would go with a couple stubby screws, a really light set of nuts skipping every other size, a long skinny rope, and a couple pickets. Might be a good route to get your team or whatever trained up on pitching out winter alpine routes and getting real efficient with sheltering belays from possible rockfall, and all that good time-saving jazz.

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