Wild Turkeys
5.13a R,
Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
FA: FA 1970 Brian Holcomb, Neal Olson Glen, Kirkpatrick FFA July 27 2013 Matt Spohn
Washington
> South-W & Tacoma
> Columbia Gorge
> Beacon Rock
> S Face
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
An amazing route with great position! The first pitch (10c) follows a neat dihedral system just right of the second tunnel. Several pitons protect the first dihedral, which is gained by scrambling up the mossy blocks. Keep going up and slightly right to gain the left side of "Beacon Tower."
The next pitch, amazing, continuously hard, and long (I'm a bit biased, but I would say again that this pitch is stellar), follows the dihedral left of the belay (which consists of one great bolt and one not so inspiring bolt). Climb the thin seam and pull onto some face holds (crux #1) and then rest on a slopey hold before entering a very balancey and techy section (crux #2). Relax and keep it together through the next 15 or so feet before entering crux #3, a pull of a left hand side pull to a good right hand edge! One more section brings you to the last 20 feet of 10ish climbing.
I pre-placed the gear for my lead ascent, primarily because of how thin the crack was and how delicate the placements were.
Location
Just to the right of tunnel #2, up to Beacon Tower, then left into the dihedral.
Protection
Two Pitons, Three #2 Metolius cams, small nuts, and a red and blue low ball (ball nut). I will submit a picture of my rack.
![First pitch of Wild Turkeys from the base. The line follows the dihedral just to the left of the fixed ropes.]()
[Hide Photo] First pitch of Wild Turkeys from the base. The line follows the dihedral just to the left of the fixed ropes.
![Matt's rack for Wild Turkey's]()
[Hide Photo] Matt's rack for Wild Turkey's
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Bend, oregon
PDX
Portland
- Yeah, Jim is a great guy and friend of mine, Joe. I'm super psyched he showed me the line and commended my FFA, or what ever else it might be called. I was going with the definition I know, (first free ascent (FFA) acknowledges lead ascents intentionally made more challenging by using equipment for protection only). Everyone is always going to have a different opinion and I am fine with that. I openly disclosed my pre-placed gear. No shame for me. You can call it what you like...FFA or a joke, but I'll be happy either way. The route was hard, I lead it, and I am happy about it. I am also super psyched to see someone lead it placing gear. That would definitely make it harder and way more awesome. Ryan, for instance, could do it.
- Patrick, I don't know you, but I would love to take you up there and get you on it. As I said, I am super psyched to watch someone lead it and will definitely belay you. I am on vacation, but will be back next week. Let me know if you want to go for it.
- I think climbers should probably focus on more important things than placing comments about others on MP. For me, climbing is the obvious thing. Thats all I am going to write about this. Im headed to Donner Pass! Climb hard. Aug 30, 2013
PDX
Salt Lake City, UT
Pacific Northwet
Respect to both your climbing skillz and your perpetual great attitude! Some of those kids you are coaching will soon be leading hard trad, it will be interesting to see how long till one of them flashes the route ground up onsight. Badassed either way. Good luck on knocking off the last of the aid lines. Aug 30, 2013
Albuquerque, NM