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Sidewinder

5.8, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 87 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Dump > Dump aka Warpin & Dor…

Description

Straightforward up and leftwards, with useful small rails and a few thoughtful moves. Crux is just past 1/3 up, apparently the only move to the right on the whole climb.

Location

20 feet right of Is This How You Clip, right before heading down to HomeGrown, Dickcheese, etc.

Protection

4-6 bolts (?) to anchors
The belay stance is a little awkward, beside the steep steps down to the rest of the wall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

clipping
[Hide Photo] clipping
Inching toward the third clip on Sidewinder.
[Hide Photo] Inching toward the third clip on Sidewinder.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
 
[Hide Comment] This route made no sense to me the natural 5.7 line is to the left and you step right clip a bolt and then step back left again. Following the bolt line is very contrived. It just doesn't make sense to me. Aug 1, 2013
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
[Hide Comment] I agree with Chris, very weird and unnatural. I decided to go straight up the bolt line and this version felt about 5.10-.

Also, the name of this route is Sidewinder. Oct 7, 2013
Mark Nunes
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I climbed this back in April, before there was an entry on MP for this route. Some other climbers told us the route was called Sidewinder and was a 5.7. Have to agree with everyone else that it's a weird line--not hard, but it's an awkward climb for someone looking for an easy first sport lead. Nov 11, 2013
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
[Hide Comment] Fact: There are 5 bolts and anchors on this route.

My Opinion: Someone wasted 5 bolts and anchors making this route. Oct 6, 2014
Carter Smith
 
[Hide Comment] Contrived, dumpy, and soft if you actually follow the line. Bolts are about 5 feet right of the natural line in order to force the grade. Mar 30, 2018
Drew Mercer
[Hide Comment] This is the most classic climb at the dump. Jun 20, 2018
B DeMers
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Following the bolt line, there is a key hold that is loose between bolt 3 and 4. Put a helmet on your belayer.

Bolt line is 5.8ish (5.6 with one 5.9- move), left of the bolts is 5.7 May 23, 2019
Caleb BR
Landis, NC
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 2/3/24 -- The crucial knob on the slab crux was making noise when being pulled on, and feels... loose. Wear a helmet (or eye protection), and make sure your belayer has their brain bucket on. Feb 5, 2024