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1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route

5.7, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
FA: George Bracksieck and Cathy Mallow
Colorado > Silver Plume > W Slabs

Description

This is a climb I led in 10/21/78. It is located on the right side of the rock and begins on the ground, just left of an obvious, short, two-tiered, left-facing dihedral that has a consistently hand-sized crack. (See the photo posted for "Left-Facing Dihedral.")

Climb up blobby rock, with no pro, angling right to meet the exit of "Left-Facing Dihedral." Belay on the big, grassy ledge about 40 feet up.

Climb straight up lower-angled, featured terrain, then angle right to the top of the big, HIGH left-facing dihedral. We belayed at a small (but not tiny) conifer on a ledge. This route crosses Unknown 9+ here. That route's bolted station lies to the left of the tree, but it isn't useful to belay the short, steep top section of the HIGH left-facing dihedral.

Climb the short, crux left-facing dihedral (bomber medium stopper and hex placements, or an unnecessary new bolt; old-school 5.7, if dry) to a big ledge, then continue to the top of the cliff. We walked off, although there is now a bolted anchor.

Protection

SR, including a medium Hex for crux on third pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The first pitch blobby rock to the end of 5.7 dihedral can be seen lower right of photo. The second pitch in the middle and the top of the dihedral one is climbing towards can be seen in the upper reaches of the photo.
[Hide Photo] The first pitch blobby rock to the end of 5.7 dihedral can be seen lower right of photo. The second pitch in the middle and the top of the dihedral one is climbing towards can be seen in the upper…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Torkelson
Denver, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The top crux dihedral is good, but if it’s wet, it becomes much harder. May 5, 2019
J P
Denver, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This is a fun outing with decent climbing and a chance to get up close with Colorado's mining history. Those miners sure liked their canned goods!

I think the lower dihedral makes a nice, more protectable start. The third pitch cracks were clean enough to go on gear I think, but we clipped the bolt. Jul 27, 2021