PRINT: Rock Climb Elephantiasis, Squamish

Elephantiasis

5.10c, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 36 votes
FA: Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Elephant's Arse

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

The bottom 10 feet will almost always be wet. However, the moves aren't very hard and you'll get a piece in before your feet are 5 feet up. Many people skip this climb because of the wetness, but the crack above is outstanding. Steep locker hand jams all the way to the top. Plenty of rests but all rests all slightly strenuous.

Location

The diagonal crack about 5 metres right of Elephant's Arse

Protection

Bomber gear the entire way. 1s, 2s and 3s are all handy.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The beauty of this route

Disgusting wet start. Anything darker in the photo is wet and slimy.

great climb if it's dry.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Fjellanger

Great and pumpy. Not sure why the Select guide describes it as a bit wide, it mostly varies from good hands to good fingers, and I was wishing for more finger-sized gear. Aug 13, 2013

Ralph Swansen
Boulder CO

5.10+

Tougher than it looks, flaring jams. Wet start has tough moves and is intimidating. Aug 22, 2013

Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA

5.10c

I don't use tape gloves in Squamish, with this route being the exception. Oct 22, 2013

Mark van Eijk

5.10

Too bad about the permanently soggy start, but worth it as the climbing above is exceptionally good. If you're tall you can place your first pieces from comfortable stances. The opening boulder problem is engaging and fun except for the slime.

The business ranges from rattly fingers to big hands and everything in between. No really hard moves, but sustained with numerous marginal rests. Multiple pieces from BD #.5 to #3 help, so do tape gloves. I agree with Eric that you'll want a selection of smaller pieces as well.

Great climbing, get over the wet start and go do it! Jul 7, 2015

mousebob

the bottom of the route is slimier and wetter than ever Jul 9, 2017

Ron P

Bottom 2m is almost almost always wet and slimy, but it's still an excellent climb. Route would be four stars if it wasn't for the mucky start. Tape/jammies is not a bad idea for this route. Sep 1, 2021

Zachary Zwick
Seattle, WA

I don’t know the history of the route, but the start is atrocious. Too wet to even properly climb and any gear for the first 10ft or so is in slimy wet rock. This route would be a classic if not for that. A bolt or two on the face so you’re not placing gear in a permanently wet crack or even a way to stick clip and aid through would make this route so much better and safer. Incredible route past that point. I was walking by and got inspired by the line to change plans and go climb it. Sep 20, 2022