Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Sautanz

5.12c, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: K. Albert 1981
International > Europe > Germany > Frankenjura > Gößweinstein > Obere Gößweinsteiner…

Description

A very impressive line which follows a crack up its first half and then continues onto the face as the crack comes to an end. Thin and technical, with a distinct crux whose end is marked by a jug.
After his successful toprope without weighting the rope, Kurt was awarded a bottle of wine with dancing pigs on the label. Thus, the inspiration for the route's name. The second toprope ascent went to John Bachar, and the first redpoint was done by Wolfgang Güllich. I got this information from de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sautanz_(Kletterroute)
Additionally, from a story in "Fight Gravity" by Kurt Albert, Jerry Moffatt came for several visits to the Frankenjura and made friends with the climbers here. During a visit in 1983, he was shown this relatively new addition to the Frankenjura hard-route scene. He had been onsighting everything else they were showing him and, sick of it, Kurt lowered down and rubbed something slippery or gooey in the crux hold. When Jerry got on it, he climbed up to that part, grabbed the hold, screamed down something like, "You assholes!", grabbed another hold and finished his onsight.

Location

On the right side of the crag.

Protection

bolts + anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The crux traverse.
[Hide Photo] The crux traverse.
Enjoying the magnificent pegboard of 2-finger pockets in the middle of Sautanz.
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the magnificent pegboard of 2-finger pockets in the middle of Sautanz.
Working up the juggy entry crack.
[Hide Photo] Working up the juggy entry crack.
Sautanz begins up the major crack system, and the continues more or less straight up to the top of the cliff.
[Hide Photo] Sautanz begins up the major crack system, and the continues more or less straight up to the top of the cliff.
Kurt on the cover of the first issue of the magazine "Boulder", climbing Sautanz.<br>
Source: http://www.up-climbing.com/en/contributions/mountaineering/kurt-albert-
[Hide Photo] Kurt on the cover of the first issue of the magazine "Boulder", climbing Sautanz. Source: http://www.up-climbing.com/en/contributions/mountaineering/kurt-albert-
A satyrical painting inspired by the name of the route.<br>
Source: vebidoo.de
[Hide Photo] A satyrical painting inspired by the name of the route. Source: vebidoo.de