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Routes in Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände

Bunte Wand S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Danzer Ged. Weg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dynamo S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Never Stop Exploring S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piazriß S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sautanz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Seitenstreifen S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stabeler Gedenkweg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: K. Albert 1981
Page Views: 218 total · 4/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 25, 2013
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description [Suggest Change]

A very impressive line which follows a crack up its first half and then continues onto the face as the crack comes to an end. Thin and technical, with a distinct crux whose end is marked by a jug.
After his successful toprope without weighting the rope, Kurt was awarded a bottle of wine with dancing pigs on the label. Thus, the inspiration for the route's name. The second toprope ascent went to John Bachar, and the first redpoint was done by Wolfgang Güllich. I got this information from de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sautanz_(Kletterroute)
Additionally, from a story in "Fight Gravity" by Kurt Albert, Jerry Moffatt came for several visits to the Frankenjura and made friends with the climbers here. During a visit in 1983, he was shown this relatively new addition to the Frankenjura hard-route scene. He had been onsighting everything else they were showing him and, sick of it, Kurt lowered down and rubbed something slippery or gooey in the crux hold. When Jerry got on it, he climbed up to that part, grabbed the hold, screamed down something like, "You assholes!", grabbed another hold and finished his onsight.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the right side of the crag.

Protection [Suggest Change]

bolts + anchor

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