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On Another Man's Wound
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.8 from 18
votes
Routes in c. The Clamshell Wall
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Ariel's Brassiere T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bolt Line T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hooker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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On Another Man's Wound T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Windy City T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,450 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Skip Thompson on Jul 25, 2013 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
This route is also known as Little Neck-y.
Start far right, edging left; after 10 feet, climb directly up the obvious crack another 15 ft, after a small tree, ascend directly to the route's crux well above the tree (60 ft). Pull up and over a small bulge, finding many slots for good pro placements and jugs all the way to the top, where a final difficult move awaits. Interesting holds on "clamshell" rocks, requiring much open grip work. Crack is on-width most of the route, making the middle section more like 5.5 or 5.4 climbing.
Start far right, edging left; after 10 feet, climb directly up the obvious crack another 15 ft, after a small tree, ascend directly to the route's crux well above the tree (60 ft). Pull up and over a small bulge, finding many slots for good pro placements and jugs all the way to the top, where a final difficult move awaits. Interesting holds on "clamshell" rocks, requiring much open grip work. Crack is on-width most of the route, making the middle section more like 5.5 or 5.4 climbing.
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