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Routes in c. The Clamshell Wall

Ariel's Brassiere T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Line T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Neck-y T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Another Man's Wound T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windy City T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 334 total, 6/month
Shared By: Skip Thompson on Jul 25, 2013
Admins: JSH

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Description

Start far right, edging left; after 10 feet, climb directly up the obvious crack another 15 ft, after a small tree, ascend directly to the route's crux well above the tree (60 ft). Pull up and over a small bulge, finding many slots for good pro placements and jugs all the way to the top, where a final difficult move awaits. Interesting holds on "clamshell" rocks, requiring much open grip work. Crack is on-width most of the route, making the middle section more like 5.5 or 5.4 climbing.

Location

The start of the route is to the far right of the wall, where there is some lichen and moss (which generally fades as you ascend). Watch for loose snake skin in holds!

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Two ringed rap bolts are located at the top of the route, set up to make rapping off a snap.

Photos

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This is the route "Little Neck-y" in the book. It's a good one. But the bolts atop this route are NOT good for rapping, as they are set back a bit in a square-ish recess. Extend them with 2 ft slings for your TR anchor. The bolts 40 ft to the right (atop Dirtissima) are the ones you want to use for rappel. Mar 19, 2016