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Savelli Crack

5.13b/c PG13, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Antoine Savelli and Teri Savelli
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is located between Coyne Crack and Keyhole Flakes. I put it up in May 1999, on lead, on sight. The crux is at top and goes conservatively 5.13b/c. This route was omitted in the recent guidebooks, and is one of Indian Creek's test pieces. Fantastic finish, never done!!

It starts with an easy boulder move to an optional #5 Camalot placement leading to the meat of the route. At first a right facing corner, leading to a left-facing and thinning corner to a double bolt belay slightly left.

Location

Between Coyne Crack and Keyhole Flakes, a very unlikely looking thin double corner.

Protection

Be ready for some thin pro. Many 0.5, thinning to 0.1 and 00.1. Tiniest TCUs on top offer dubious pro. Rollers are better. I repeated my route May 2013, and just as I was reaching the anchors, I fell unzipping one third of the pitch (scar under anchors from piece popping), a nasty forty footer. Do not do this route after it rains. Cam hooks OK on top. When sandy this climb is a 5.14.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Sydnor
Moab
 
[Hide Comment] This pitch is incredible, with amazing rock, enjoyable climbing, and just enough features to be possible up top. A couple of hand-size pieces get you past the initial section (no 5 necessary). The changing corners take one small piece and then many blue TCU/red c3 sizes. Red c3s work better in places as the crack is a little tight. For the top, several of the BD .2, purple TCUs/green c3s, and finally something grey or black will see you to the anchor. Understanding that it is Antoine's route, I would still admonish people from using cam hooks. They are not necessary and will likely damage the rock. I think the gear in the upper crux section is quite good, albeit small. Dec 10, 2016