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Routes in El Diablo Spire

El Diablo TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
R U Positive U Can't TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Speak in English TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waffer, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 212 total, 4/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Jul 25, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The right facing corner starts very shallow but deepens gradually. The seam at the start becomes a crack, which continues to widen. The rock quality decreasing upward while the holds become larger and more numerous. The crux is at the bottom 10 feet of the route. Harder variations to either side are possible at several heights.

Location

The most prominent crack on the wall left of Speak in English distinguished by going straight to the top with only one minor step-over to the left high up on the wall. The route is located center left in the picture and goes through the most textured part of the darker area.

Protection

It can be led, but first placement is rather high and the rest of the route a bit dirty, so top roping is recommended. This is easy to do with trad gear and possibly by tying boulders.

Photos

Jorge Achata
Lima, Peru
  5.7
Jorge Achata   Lima, Peru
  5.7
Good climb on gear for a confident 5.7 leader, it makes you think before placing gear: Great placement stances but crumbly rock and dirt inside some sections. I used small to medium stoppers and small cams for the first two placements. Tricams would be nice for pods halfway up, but not vital.

The large whitish block where the line takes a step to the left is loose. Be careful on top rope or lead, don't pry it or put gear behind it. Oct 1, 2013