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Tres Amigos

5.7+ WI3+ M6 Mod. Snow PG13, Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Stanley Vrba and his 3 Amigos
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Tenmile Canyon aka Of…

Description

This is a great 'alpine-like' line that can vary depending on conditions. It was designed as a dry tool route but can vary with some ice and snow. It has loose rock, and the turf, when frozen, is quite good for climbing. I guess it could be climbed as a pure rock route but would not be considered enjoyable.

P1. 60m. Begin the route on the lower right edge of the slab (per Sunshine11 Lovas near the corner of the Diamond Wall), and climb, trending left, on ledges and short faces staying on the slab under the steep face, to a stance and 2 bolt belay.

P2. 50m. Work a slight bit left up short faces and ledges to a shallow, left-facing corner to a great, protected 2 bolt belay (per Sunshine11 Lovas below a roof).

P3. 70m. Climb up 30' to the roof, set some pro and drop back down a bit before following the weakness/crack that runs under the roof. Tricky moves up a steep face with some crumbly overhangs lead to a wide chimney. Pull out of the chimney when you can, and trend right to the huge trees.

Do a double 70m free rap off the overhang, and use the 2 bolted belays below to the deck. Alternately: per Sunshine11 Lovas: do 3 70m rappels. Hike up to the right. You will find a big spruce with some cord and blue webbing and a rap ring. This will give you an exciting free hanging rappel back to the first roof with the bolted anchor.

HELMETS ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!

Per Sunshine11 Lovas: be cautious in the Spring or Fall. There is a chance of ice, and the rock will probably be wet with melt. This is a Northeast-facing wall with slab, ledges, and overhangs.

Per Rob Griz: this is a winter mixed route. Please do not rip out the moss. If we rip out the moss, there will be no frozen turf placements.

Eds. This is a combination of 2 submissions onto the page of the 1st submission.

Location

This is straight above the parking area on the slabby wall with the huge overhang near the top. Rap from trees to 2, 2 bolt fixed anchors.

Take I-70 to Officer's Gulch exit. Park on the south side of the highway by the gated bike path. Cross the bikepath, and hike directly up the scree, aiming for the lower right corner of the slab (left of the Diamond Wall).

This is on a Northeast-facing wall called Officer's Wall which is made of gneiss/schist with slab, ledges, and overhangs.

The altitude is 10525 feet.

Protection

Cams to 5", a few thin pins (KB, LAs), medium nuts, and maybe a Spectra or 2. It has two bolted belays.

Per Sunshine11 Lovas: near the top out there is a rusty, old piton.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Officer's Wall. On the far right, Tres Amigos goes up the right corner. Follow the weakness through the roofs.
[Hide Photo] Officer's Wall. On the far right, Tres Amigos goes up the right corner. Follow the weakness through the roofs.
The anchors at the top of the second pitch below the first roof.
[Hide Photo] The anchors at the top of the second pitch below the first roof.
Rappel from the top. Step off the edge and enjoy a free hanging rappel.
[Hide Photo] Rappel from the top. Step off the edge and enjoy a free hanging rappel.
A closer look at pitch 3 and the fun roofs.
[Hide Photo] A closer look at pitch 3 and the fun roofs.
The upper roof. A little wet.
[Hide Photo] The upper roof. A little wet.
The anchors at the top of the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] The anchors at the top of the first pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Griz
Frisco
  5.7+ WI3+ M6 Mod. Snow
[Hide Comment] Tres Amigos is an interesting line, first climbed in the winter of 2013. Stanley's ground-up ascent left bolted belays at P1 and P2. It was climbed with 3 different partners to the finish. It can be climbed year-round on rock, ice, and/or snow. Ideal winter conditions exist in late winter when the snow that sits on ledges sets up. Frozen dirt and moss aid a bit in the route. A spicy climb with crampons and tools. The free rap from the top is great. Oct 7, 2014
Sunshine11 Lovas
Silverthorne, CO
  5.7 WI3+ M5
[Hide Comment] We did the rappels with a 60m rope. The first rappel from the top was a total rope stretch to reach the anchor below the roof. Then from there we couldn't make it to the next anchor, so we did an intermediate rappel off the tree you can girth-hitch on P2. That got us down to the next anchor. The last rappel got us down to some mellow ledges, and we downclimbed back to terra firma. I guess that's what happens when you go adventure climbing sometimes. A 70m rope is a good idea! Oct 8, 2014
[Hide Comment] Is this different than Bombs Away Dad? It looks like it follows the same line. Jul 26, 2016
Jacek Czyz
Chicago, Denver, Summit CO; PL
 
[Hide Comment] Indeed, looks similar. How long is Bombs Away Dad, and when D.Hurst&Co climbed it? They rappel or walk away? May 27, 2020