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Routes in Last Stand Wall

Colorectal Surgery Disaster T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crescent Moon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Full of Scalps S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Stand, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peyote Trip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scalp Fest S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sweat Lodge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: David Lenz, Peter Lenz
Page Views: 114 total, 2/month
Shared By: PeterSLenz on Jul 23, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

You will find interesting climbing up a wide crack/narrow chimney.
Crux is a small overhang. Off-width skills not required.Lichen, moss and loose blocks add spice to the 5.8 grade. (I rated it a "bomb," due to the loose blocks.) Construct your anchor with two double length runners (around small trees) and a 0.75 Camalot in a shallow hole. To the West of this crack is a low angle gully which serves as the descent route. Welcome to the real world.

Location

This pitch is a crack/chimney located at the far West (ie climber's right) of the Last Stand Wall. Descent: walk down the easy gully West of the climb.

Protection

No bolts, but the crack allows for good protection.
Trees at top provide anchors. A .75 camalot can also be used. (Feel free to add a bolt anchor if there is any evidence that the trees are being damaged or do not provide an adequate anchor.)
Cams and nuts provide excellent protection on this route. Bring one 4-5 inch cam for the wide section.
Be certain your belayer stands to the side, so that you do not crush their skull with a loose block.

Photos

zoso  
Heh! Great route name.

I'm gonna buy a $600 drill just for this. Can't wait to add an anchor (and spray bolts all over it while I'm at it). I'm super motivated by the quality rating. Jul 24, 2013