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Routes in The Main Cliff

2 in the Bush V3 6A
5th of November T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Access Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Can the Jingo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13
Sky Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Squeeze Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mack Johnson and Friends
Page Views: 412 total, 8/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Jul 23, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb the chimney placing gear in the crack in the back. Climb to a stance, protect and climb spooky/fun traverse left until you reach top of the pinnacle. Protect and make tricky face moves to reach the top.

Guidebook: Up the right chimney, then climb the center of the upper face.

Location

Start in the right hand chimney formed by the pinnacle.

Protection

Light single rack to 2 Camelot.

Photos

Benjamin Schneider
South Hamlintownburg, NH
Benjamin Schneider   South Hamlintownburg, NH
Bolts on this route are still there - saw a bolt + rap ring on the standalone spire as well. Could use a quick link at the top for rapping purposes - I will try to bring one out with me next time. Sep 14, 2016
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
This was one of the retro-bolt jobs done at the dump.

A proud traditional lead I couldn't climb higher than the top of the pinnacle on my own gear, a very blind placement at the large horizontal crack stopped me. Heady. The traverse to the top of the pinnacle is easy, but protects mediocre and only from the stance at the top of the chimney. There are currently 6-7 bolts, all but the last one is necessary. If kept, the bolt should be moved a little higher and to the right. Jul 23, 2013