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Routes in The Main Cliff

2 in the Bush V3 6A
5th of November T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Access Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Can the Jingo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13
Sky Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Squeeze Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Aid, 25 ft
FA: Mack Johnson
Page Views: 115 total, 2/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Jul 23, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Start at the lowest point on the face and trend up and right following a nice crack. Place gear under the roof and using the right hand arĂȘte move up to place or clip small wires in the seam then make a hard (v5ish) boulder problem to hit a horizontal crack, protect and climb out to a bolted anchor. Or, if aiding, climb out seam to horizontal crack and to anchors. It is possible to tr the line by climbing the access route (5.3) and scrambling to the anchor.


Last route on the main face before the gulley that splits the main cliff and the dump face.


Thin cams and small wires


M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
OK. Now I go get some coffee. Good Luck! Jul 23, 2013
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Damn mark, that was fast. Old guide book gives it the grade. Climb up a little at .10 then pound some iron, a1. I have never bothered as an aid climb, so I gave a free description of the route.

We are trying it free at maybe mid 12 r-ish. I am weak and need some more time, also thought it was presumptuous of me to put prospective grade... Jul 23, 2013
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Free project, this will be a great route and addition to this crag. Myself and a few others have put in a little time. Be careful, I have skipped and come very close to the ground several times on this route falling from the crux and placing gear before the crux. I have also ripped and sheared gear on this route, but with work it is safe and awesome. Jul 23, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I haven't had my coffee yet, but I am having a hard time understanding the grade rating. V5 - 5.10 - A1? Is it a 5.12 that some people aid with mandatory 5.10 free climbing? Jul 23, 2013