Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Alan Karpel and John Biddick
Page Views: 702 total · 11/month
Shared By: Garv Andzev on Jul 22, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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On the north side of the cliff, about 20 feet in, is a 25 foot dihedral which ends at horizontal crack. Climb the dihedral and the flake above, then traverse left into the upper wide crack. Climb crack to end, place gear, and move left onto face. Clip first of three bolts. Move left towards arête and clip second bolt. Go up to third bolt (shared with Crazyhorse) and make difficult exit moves.


Standard Needles rack, some medium length runners, and draws. Chain anchor. One 70 meter rope will bring you back from your visit with the Bong Family.


Cheyenne Chaffee
North Conway, NH
Cheyenne Chaffee   North Conway, NH
Great route! Nice place to hang out on a hot day. I would say its more like 5.9, but would like to hear what others think. Jun 7, 2014
David Deville
Flagstaff, Arizona
David Deville   Flagstaff, Arizona
I did not see the second bold as per the description here. I found one bolt not too far out from the crack and then there was a moderate run out to the shared bolt just below the anchors. If the second bolt is there, it must be way over to the left. Aug 25, 2016
Ryan Emery
Black Hills, SD
Ryan Emery   Black Hills, SD
Great route and my first 5.9 lead in the park! A little bit of everything- jams, chimney, face! A bolt has been removed from this route... I don't know the full story but I just led this today and having the third bolt would have been very nice! I would say this is more 5.9! As of 8/2716 there are only two bolts on the face. Aug 27, 2016