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Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drop Zone T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Dick Williams, and Bob Elsinger, 1986
Page Views: 231 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ross Exler on Jul 22, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Edit]

The route is a bit contrived, as at any point you can traverse a few feet left into the easier climbing of WASP, but it is still fun climbing and worth the effort. The initial R section can be protected by climbing up WASP, placing a piece, then coming back down and doing the low crux on JAP.

Start directly right of Wasp (or maybe WASP, if this is JAP). Climb a thin slab to a high step 5.10 move at about 12' off the ground. There is no protection until you've pulled this move and stand up to reach a horizontal. Continue up a couple body lengths to a puzzling crux at a horizontal below a blank face. You will see a few obvious holds down low to your left and right, and high feet, with some right slanting holds a few feet above you. Once past this, you will be under an undercling roof with a layback feature. Ascend this to the right, and onward through a small face and one more small overlap to the easy, low angle face that characterizes the second part of WASP.

From here, angle way up and left to the WASP anchor (2 ropes to rap, I believe), build an anchor and have your partner TR (and then leapfrog cams to the right along the horizontal to reach the tree ledge where they can walk off), or put a few directionals in the horizontal and belay from the ledge out right.

Location [Edit]

Just right of WASP

Protection [Edit]

Bring a bunch of small cams. A few larger cams work well for the anchor, if you chose that method (green - blue camalots).

Photos

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Ross congratulations on your first route description. Jul 22, 2013

More About Back to the Future (AKA JAP)

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