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Routes in Main Wall

Angels Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Cobra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Cross S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Charmer T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cliff Hanger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Face to Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King Cobra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moon Night's Snake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Eyed Snake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pressure S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Girl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pretty Girl variation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spitting Cobra S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: K. Buckner, J. Padden, 24-OCT-1965
Page Views: 485 total · 9/month
Shared By: James K Haugen on Jul 22, 2013
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Trad Rating: Hard Severe (Brit System) in 1968 climbing guidebook
Sport rating: F5

Normally only one pitch is done, however there is a second pitch.

Pitch 1: A delightful exercise in bridging and laybacking. Climb the obvious, easy angled groove and corner. Continue over the corner crack, then to a 2-bolt belay. 80ft.
Plenty of unnecessary bolts for protection, placed long after the first ascensionists completed the route.

Pitch 2: Climb the slab and wall above, 50 ft. Unknown anchor status.

Location

Refer to hongkongclimbing.com for route details and topo.

Protection

This route can be climbed using only bolts, or climbed using trad protection.

1 set of cams to 2.5", 1-2 sets of nuts will protect the climb to a 2-bolt belay.

Photos

Brian Boyd
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Brian Boyd   Kowloon, Hong Kong  
If you are going to climb this on trad gear, you will benefit from having more mid-sized cams than stoppers. Multiple opportunities to place a #3 camalot, and perhaps a little run-out if all you have is a #2.

hongkongclimbing.com (where the route description and topo are taken from) list this as 5.9, but the old guidebook lists the rating as 5.5. So, YMMV.

For sport climbers, you have a choice of anchors to finish on: (1) The obvious anchors just right of the corner, (2) anchors mentioned in the route description, up and left from choice 1, and (3) continue up from option 1 for another 15 feet or so, passing one bolt. Aug 4, 2013