Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Block, Front Side

Darling Dainty Feet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuclear Arms S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phazers on Stun T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unnamed 5.12 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Urine Over Your Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
unnamed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and A. Pisaneschi
Page Views: 369 total · 7/month
Shared By: Sinner on Jul 21, 2013
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Deceptively hard climbing takes you past the first two bolts, the crux is passing the drilled pocket. No individual move is harder than 11+ but the pump and commitment adds a bit. Can be done statically but its probably easier to huck a couple dynos. Veering right at the last bolt keeps it 12ish, heading straight up past the last bolt ups the ante a bit.

Location

Two routes to the right of Nose drops. Its possible to start as for Nose drops or to take a more direct approach.

Protection

Bolts, pretty rusty

Photos

Dave  
Preeetty sure dude in the picture is actually on Phasers on Stun. Both pictures on this route and Phasers are of the same move, but the description on Phasers fits the picture better. Oct 12, 2017
kenr  
Location is on the frontside wall of the main detached block (the east face visible on approach from Paradise), near the left / north end of the face.

No bolt anchor directly at the top of the bolt line. There is a two-bolt anchor to the right (south) which is more over the route "Phazers on Stun". Perhaps that's why the Description above suggests veering Right above the highest bolt. May 24, 2014