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Routes in Dead Dog & Energamata Walls

Arkansas Roofs 101 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break in the Battle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
China Doll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dead Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dunamis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Energemata T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Frosted Flakes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Eggs and Spam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hello Kitty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hells Angels S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Holy Smokes! T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Inherit the Wind T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mindless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Renewed Mind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
SAMCRO S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Second Adam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Route X Next to Dead Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swamp Thing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Taco T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Whiff of a Dead Dog T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Joe Larson
Page Views: 750 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joe Larson on Jul 21, 2013
Admins: TylerKC

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Interesting 11+/12- climbing brings you to a dynamic crux above the 4th bolt. Punch it through a slight runout on moderate terrain to a rest before the crux. Hard moves right off the rest slowly ease off to the anchors. A fixed draw has been added on the 5th bolt so that it is possible to clip it off the jug, otherwise it is scary to hang a draw. It can also be used for cleaning.


Right of Second Adam




I highly recommend stick clipping the first bolt and being very careful going up to the second. The rock below the first two bolts is quite friable and a bunch of the holds down low have broken off recently. Definitely don't climb it if it has been raining. Getting through the crumbly rock is worth it though because the rock and movement from the second bolt on are five-star!!! May 23, 2016
I pulled off three tiny crimps on the start before noticing it looks like most people start a bit right of the bolt line on some big (but still chossy) start holds. Oct 30, 2018

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