Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 30 ft|
|FA:||Andy Patterson, Summer 2012|
|Page Views:||479 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||andy patterson on Jul 20, 2013|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
This route may never see a second ascent, but who knows: the line does beg to be tackled. As you approach the Renaissance Man crag, Pestilence Crack follows up the left exit of the boulder "perched" above the cave. The first twenty feet are harder than they look, and the rock is weird and slippery. After that, the climbing kicks way back--as in so far past horizontal that you actually climb down. I won't spoil the fun with beta. Get creative! After the lip, scrape for the finish jug and top the crag out. Downclimb the gulley to climber's left (easy 5th) or rap off the Renaissance Man anchors.
There's one bolt at the beginning of the roof, before you head out in to super-overhanging madness. I placed a few pieces at the lip encounter in the .75-2 BD Camalot range. The crack will also take a #6 BD or the biggest Wild Country cam, but who wants to lug somethig like that up the hill. Also, watch for rope drag at the lip, it's horrendous if you're not careful.
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