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Routes in Renaissance Crag

Black Death, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bring Out Your Dead T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Camelbak Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pestilence Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Renaissance Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trebuchet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wicked Duke Takes a Wife, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Andy Patterson, Summer 2012
Page Views: 356 total, 7/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jul 20, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route may never see a second ascent, but who knows: the line does beg to be tackled. As you approach the Renaissance Man crag, Pestilence Crack follows up the left exit of the boulder "perched" above the cave. The first twenty feet are harder than they look, and the rock is weird and slippery. After that, the climbing kicks way back--as in so far past horizontal that you actually climb down. I won't spoil the fun with beta. Get creative! After the lip, scrape for the finish jug and top the crag out. Downclimb the gulley to climber's left (easy 5th) or rap off the Renaissance Man anchors.

Location

Climbs out the left roof crack created by the perched boulder.

Protection

There's one bolt at the beginning of the roof, before you head out in to super-overhanging madness. I placed a few pieces at the lip encounter in the .75-2 BD Camalot range. The crack will also take a #6 BD or the biggest Wild Country cam, but who wants to lug somethig like that up the hill. Also, watch for rope drag at the lip, it's horrendous if you're not careful.

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
This crack actually holds it's own in terms of novelty, and keen climbers can hone their roof-thrutching skills without having to drive to Utah. Right now, there's a Bay tree obscuring the lip of the exit (crux), but that may change in the near future, due to erosion and weather. It was looking kinda droopy the last time I saw it.

As with all obscure SB routes, cleaning is needed. Bring a brush, and wear long sleeves! I didn't. And I paid for it. Jul 20, 2013