Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 670 total · 10/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Jul 17, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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The hardest line at Bulo, this route seems a mystery to most and the line/beta is not very clear. In my time spent on this climb, I came up with three options for climbing this route:

Option #1- Make a few easy moves and clip the first bolt. From here, move leftwards towards the arete and climb the face and arete utilizing crimps and sidepulls with your right hand and the arete with your left. This line actually seems the most natural and logical and the second clip is fairly easy to make. After reaching the good edges above the second bolt, move right and up, finishing direct. This feels like low end 5.12 to me.

Option #2- Make a few easy moves and clip the first bolt. From here, head up and right on progressively worsening crimps to a hard lockoff to a decent crimp (crux). Match this crimp and move left to a bad gaston pocket. Find a foot, make a tricky move to another pocket with the right and on to the good edges with the left. Clip the second bolt and continue upwards on large holds to the chains. There is some groundfall potential on this one as it is easiest/best to clip the second bolt after reaching the good hold above it. This feels like mid to hard 5.12 to me.

Option #3- This could be the intended line, but it climbs somewhat contrived. Start the same as the other options. After reaching the first bolt, climb directly (just right of the bolt line) utilizing a few mighty small crimps and a gaston or two. The crux involves deadpointing to a decent crimp with the right while not losing contact with the left. There is also groundfall potential on this option as clipping the second bolt before reaching the good edges is nearly impossible. This feels more like low end 5.13 to me.

The rock on this route is some of the best at Bulo and each one of these options is fantastic. They are all good tests of technique, footwork and finger strength.


This route is located in the Main Area to the left of 'Plumbers Crack' and 'Return Of Yoda'. It climbs the obvious thin slab.


2 bolts


- No Photos -
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
I chose to list all of the 'options' for this climb in the hopes of spurring discussion and/or providing clarity for those interested in climbing this line.

It seemed somewhat contrived to climb the line direct when you could easily move left (to the arete) or right (basically climbing the right edge of the face for a few moves) and still clip the bolts as intended.

But, I'd love to hear other people's thoughts/opinions/insight! Jul 18, 2013
Christian, thanks for listing the "options" in the route's description. I tried all three for this route. Couldn't figure out the center or right variations. Both seemed harder than what I currently climb, so high-12/low-13, feels like it's definitely in the right direction at least.

The left variation felt like it had a technical 12a-ish crux to me for the one or two moves it takes to traverse to the arete after the first bolt, after that, it eases significantly. Additionally, like you said, it makes the second clip much less committing, and avoids risking the potential ground fall described in options 2,3.

The Northwest Oregon Rock book calls this climb "Fat Rabbit"...anyone know what that's all about? Aug 24, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
I believe the original name refers to the 12+ variation going straight up. The name listed here I would guess is in reference to cutting left out of the hard climbing. Aug 24, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Yah, I'm not really sure what the story is with the names. Micah might be right though, as that name would fit that variation well. :) Micah, since you're an Admin, feel free to change anything with the description/names if you think it's necessary. I used to spend the summers up on Mt. Hood, but it's been a while since I've been in that area so I'm pretty out of the loop now and certainly not a local by any stretch. I got the names from the older 'Rock Climbing Oregon' book, printed by Falcon.

I've always been a fan of hard slab/face climbs, as it's one of my favorite styles of climbing, so I always found this climb appealing. I enjoyed all the variations I listed above and I definitely recommend this climb! Aug 24, 2015
Zachary Laschober  
Scrubbed tons of moss and dirt from every potential feature of the central face on 6/30/18 in hopes of finding a line which didn’t bail left or right. Best I found is to clip first bolt from the obvious blocks, cross left hand into the sharp crimp, right up to the smooth negative crimp, then either left thumb catch or monoish gaston on the quarter sized dish to get your right hand way up to a miserable freshly cleaned of lichen and dirt. By the way, when you are about to make contact every limb is basically slipping; this is only an intermediate which sets for a throw to the rail over second bolt. Trouble comes from the rope because enough slack needs to be in the line to not impede the climber in a very sudden and grueling upward sequence, but this will almost guarantee a deck.

Is a bad v6+ couple of movements after a few sharp holds but before extra light climbing.

Stick the second bolt, try the move, then realize all of those chalked up holds on the left side are from people climbing to the left. Jul 1, 2018