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Whiskey on the Southbound

5.12a, Sport,  Avg: 2.7 from 56 votes
FA: Dan Snyder
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Windshield Wiper Wall

Description

Like most routes, a slightly chossy start to better climbing. A hard, boulder section at the 1/2 way mark to fun cobble climbing.

Note- one bolt is a little hard to see when you approach it.

Protection

Bolts/quickdraws

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mort
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Interesting that one guide calls it 12b, the other mentions the "very hard crux", and here it's called bouldery. I must have gotten lucky because I thought it had the easiest crux of all the Wiper 12a or 12b routes. Onsighted the crux(es) and then broke a hold at the top. Jun 10, 2015
Mike Bond
Kentucky
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Two stars as of today, but this could clean up into another 4 star classic over time. It's still quite dirty as of today. I broke 2 holds and kicked off a dozen (per my belayer) small pebbles...so it's cleaner now. The DK guide is pretty spot on...there is a definitive crux midway consisting of slopers. It is between bolt 6 and 7. Bolt 6 is hard to see when you are on route. Do this route and help clean it into a 4 star classic. Sep 22, 2015
Andy Bandos
CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Very solid for the grade. One of the hardest 12a's I've done at Maple.

I think this thing is another windshield wiper classic! There is definitely a unique crux at bolt 6 and a redpoint crux at bolt 12. Maybe a broken cobble actually made the top half harder? Jun 6, 2019
Kip H
Farmington, utah
 
[Hide Comment] I didnt find any issues finding bolts. If you blow the crux you'll take a bit of a ride. Odd bolt placement. The crux flows right to left on slippery holds. For the rest a good hold always comes along. Some great overhanging sections. Super good. Jun 5, 2021
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Left anchor bolt is starting to wiggle and should be replaced. Aug 15, 2023