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Erocktica

5.10c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 127 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Pilot Mountain > 07. Little Amphitheater

Description

Start under the roof and follow the bolt line. Crux is getting past the 4th bolt. Low angle slab leads to the 5th bolt and then route steepens again to the anchors.

Location

Located on the wall to the right of Grandpa's belay and left of Pee Break. Look for the bolt line and small roofs.

Protection

5 Bolts and ring anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

going left to get past the 2nd roof because the rock to the right and above the 2nd roof was wet the day I tried it (going straight up seemed too hard)
[Hide Photo] going left to get past the 2nd roof because the rock to the right and above the 2nd roof was wet the day I tried it (going straight up seemed too hard)
Taking the easy way over the second roof.
[Hide Photo] Taking the easy way over the second roof.
Erocktica (Red dots are approximate bolt location).
[Hide Photo] Erocktica (Red dots are approximate bolt location).
Erocktica
[Hide Photo] Erocktica
Eroticka from the Bolts of KMA.
[Hide Photo] Eroticka from the Bolts of KMA.
start of the route (Erocktica (Left Start))
[Hide Photo] start of the route (Erocktica (Left Start))

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Thomas
[Hide Comment] FYI - As of 11/7/15, the hanger on the third bolt is loose. Climb with caution! Nov 19, 2015
MattWietrzyk
[Hide Comment] As of 26/11/2016 the third bolt is out. We were climbing on it and basically we took it out of the rock without any problems. The bolt was completely loose. Be careful. Nov 27, 2016
Misha Stemkovski
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] There's a hold just waiting to break off under the second roof. Be careful what you grab! Nov 6, 2017
Nathaniel Ward
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Great route, and new looking glue-in bolts as of 3/23/19. Yes a loose hold or two under the roofs, but no worse than any other Pilot route. It’s a safe lead, as you can essentially be on TR for the roofs (second bolt is a long reach though, and likely harder for shorter climbers) and the crux is definitely standing up onto the slab past the 4th bolt, which is a fun and somewhat awkward move. 3 stars for Pilot, for sure. Mar 23, 2019