[Hide Comment] SWEET ROUTE, I pulled through the 11- crux by stepping in a sling.

Brought gear up to a #4 and used it a few times. Wish I had more pieces of tiny gear (purple and blue metolius) for the second pitch. The third pitch is a must do as well, funky lieback into a chimney!!!

Route is FULL VALUE. Aug 18, 2013

[Hide Comment] Also I'd suggest rapping off of Lizard lounge for the last rappel, the second pitch is a rope eater. Also be sure you have 70m. Aug 18, 2013

[Hide Comment] Set to #3 Camalot should do the job; I did not place #4. Take extra small pieces as finger crack on pitch 2 consumes many of them, especially i.e. #0.3, 0.4 BD or nuts. Pitch 3 is super fun with steep crack section and a chimney!
Be careful when dropping your rope from pitch 2; it can get stuck in the bushes/ crack. Jun 29, 2017

[Hide Comment] The smallest piece I placed was a red C3. I found few in the red and yellow C3 sizes were nice to have. Enjoyed this route but after doing it I will be sure not to be anywhere near the base of this when someone is on it, particularly on the 3rd pitch as well as when they are rapping. Be very cautious when leading the 3rd pitch especially nearing the traverse out left, there are a few good size rocks ready to go. Jul 3, 2017

[Hide Comment] Agreed. Great climb, but the last pitch definitely has some loose rock that could be a hazard if one wasn't carful. Jul 4, 2017

[Hide Comment] All three pitches are great. Pitch 1&2 link for a great 70 m pitch. Pitch 3 has some loose stuff that I found easy to avoid.
If the 10d rating is intimidating, pull through the crux on pitch 1 makes this a great 10a. Jun 27, 2018

[Hide Comment] Seems like a stiff 10d roof... but if you pull through, as advertised, a fun 10- climb outside the roof. Extra blue/yellow metolius size cams will get used. Jun 8, 2019

[Hide Comment] 1 pitch. Solo. first solo aid with trad bottom anchor. Bailed 15 ft from anchors. Bring offset micros Jan 5, 2020

[Hide Comment] Found the anchor on the 3rd pitch to be in an awkward place to bring up a second, so setting up a TR and lowering to belay from P2 anchor made the most sense. There's still plenty of loose rock up there, so be careful and give folks on the ground a heads up. Fun little climb! May 24, 2021