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Routes in Aiguille de Praz Torrent

Voie Parat-Seigneur T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: A. Parat, Y. Seiggneur, 6 July 1969
Page Views: 455 total, 9/month
Shared By: Seleucus on Jul 16, 2013
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

The easiest line up the NE face of the Aiguille de Praz Torrent, this climb provides interesting and varied climbing. It is highly aesthetic and is really only marred by a bit of grass on pitch 3.

Pitch 1 (5.8): Climb the obvious rightward sloping ramp (very easy) which starts just above a small metal plaque at the base of the NE face. At the end of this ramp move right and upwards to a belay on a small ledge.



Pitch 2 (5.7): Move up a few meters before going right on an easy ramp until you reach the belay located under a small overhang.

Pitch 3 (5.8):Move right from the belay and up before turning left and going up easy grassy tufts to the belay in a corner.

Pitch 4 (5.9): From the belay move left onto a face and go around the arete. Stem up the dihedral system to the belay at the top.



Pitch 5 (5.10a): From the belay go immediately right. One difficult move (well protected by pitons) will lead to easier climbing for a few meters until you come to an awkward overhang which can be aided using the piton and attached sling. After pulling through this, turn right to a belay on a ledge.



Pitch 6 (5.9): From the belay traverse to the right and a bit down before moving into a beautiful chimney system. Stem up the chimney. At the top, move out right and go up a few meters to the belay. It should be noted that this is a long pitch with the potential for a great deal of rope drag. It is possible to have an intermediate belay inside the chimney on two pitons.

Pitch 7 (5.7): From the belay go up a wide crack (or alternatively go around to the left of this crack). At the top, you find a ledge. Move to the right of the ledge and go up easy flakes and slabs. When the slab level out, move right and climb a crack/arete to the top of the epaule where there are two belay stations equipped to rappel.

Location

Follow the directions to Aiguille de Praz Torrent, the start is located at the left side of the NE Face directly above a metal plaque.

To descend the route, rappel the nearby route Super Jacques which goes down the left edge of the obvious pillar which is to the right of Voie Parat Seigneur (until Voie Parat moves onto this pillar at the top of the 6th pitch). Voie Parat-Seigneur is not itself equipped for rappel.

Protection

The route has many pitons, but it is advisable to bring a set of friends and nuts to supplement the protection. The pitons should always be checked to ensure they are safe before trusting them, particularly when in an anchor.

Photos

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