Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||A. Parat, Y. Seiggneur, 6 July 1969|
|Page Views:||737 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Seleucus on Jul 16, 2013|
|Admins:||Euan Cameron, Luc-514|
Pitch 1 (5.8): Climb the obvious rightward sloping ramp (very easy) which starts just above a small metal plaque at the base of the NE face. At the end of this ramp move right and upwards to a belay on a small ledge.
Topo for Voie Parat-Seigneur on the Aiguille de Praz-Torrent
Pitch 2 (5.7): Move up a few meters before going right on an easy ramp until you reach the belay located under a small overhang.
Pitch 3 (5.8):Move right from the belay and up before turning left and going up easy grassy tufts to the belay in a corner.
Pitch 4 (5.9): From the belay move left onto a face and go around the arete. Stem up the dihedral system to the belay at the top.
Climbing the 4th pitch of Voie Parat-Seigneur.
Pitch 5 (5.10a): From the belay go immediately right. One difficult move (well protected by pitons) will lead to easier climbing for a few meters until you come to an awkward overhang which can be aided using the piton and attached sling. After pulling through this, turn right to a belay on a ledge.
Pulling the crux (5.10a) on Pitch 5 of Voie Parat-Seigneur.
Pitch 6 (5.9): From the belay traverse to the right and a bit down before moving into a beautiful chimney system. Stem up the chimney. At the top, move out right and go up a few meters to the belay. It should be noted that this is a long pitch with the potential for a great deal of rope drag. It is possible to have an intermediate belay inside the chimney on two pitons.
Pitch 7 (5.7): From the belay go up a wide crack (or alternatively go around to the left of this crack). At the top, you find a ledge. Move to the right of the ledge and go up easy flakes and slabs. When the slab level out, move right and climb a crack/arete to the top of the epaule where there are two belay stations equipped to rappel.
To descend the route, rappel the nearby route Super Jacques which goes down the left edge of the obvious pillar which is to the right of Voie Parat Seigneur (until Voie Parat moves onto this pillar at the top of the 6th pitch). Voie Parat-Seigneur is not itself equipped for rappel.