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Waste Knot

5.8, Sport, 130 ft (39 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 108 votes
FA: unknown
S Dakota > Custer SP > Sylvan Lake > Middle Earth > Towers of Teeth > Ephel Duath

Description

Your time will not be wasted when you climb this route; nor will it be wasted when you climb this route again because it was so dam fun. A steep wandering bolted route that uses a brilliant mix of large jugs and in-cut edges to provide an exhilarating experience. The route never seamed run out and was supper fun all the way to the top. My friend accidentally spelled the route like this Waist Knot ?? :) The bolt line can be challenging to spot but there are two little bushes growing out on this route.

Location

On the SE corner of Tower of Teeth

Protection

8 bolts an an optional #1 master cam
Bonus Beta: extend every bolt other wise suffer from rope drag

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Aprox Line
[Hide Photo] Aprox Line
Me on waste not
[Hide Photo] Me on waste not

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BBQ
 
[Hide Comment] I believe the credit for the "official first accent" for this route has been lost to the annuals of time. However, an "updated" first accent can probably be credited to Darryl Stisser and Reggie Walters.

I also believe that this is one of those Black Hills climbs that falls into the category of "If you only have time for one climb at (insert location/at this grade) make it this one." THIS ROUTE IS SICK! Jul 16, 2013
Dave Molash
Arlington, VA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I love the optional #1 mastercam for protection. Beware of breaking rocks when pulling the rope down! ^_^ Jul 22, 2013
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] long sling every bolt to minimize drag. awesome route that is very consistent and just keeps coming. this route is pg-13 for sure so be ready when you leave the ground. 15-20ft between each bolt. Aug 9, 2013
Alex Zucca
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] You need 2 ropes to do this route. A 70m will leave your rope ends still 20 feet off the ground. Lead up the route, and belay the second from the top. Have your second bring up a second rope for the rappel. May 20, 2016
Byron Igoe
 
[Hide Comment] This route is 40 meters long, so an 80m rope just makes it. I don't know why MP uses feet for route lengths, when ropes are measured in meters. Jun 2, 2019
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.7
[Hide Comment] My favorite of the three moderate sport routes on this face. This felt easier than Outer Shadows. Aug 30, 2020
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Seemed like the bolts were not in the best positions. Likewise I question the lack of free stances for drilling at the bolted positions. Use alpine draws for this route. Used a .3 Camelot between 1st and 2nd bolt. Aug 6, 2022