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Routes in After 5 Crag

BBQ Buddies Control the Cosmos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beta Male S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Morrigan, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plinko S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoulda Stopped at One S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Whisky Gina S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Snyder, 2013
Page Views: 407 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on Jul 15, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

The steep corner up and left of Beta Male. The crack is too tight for fingers but thankfully there are giant pods that form jugs big enough for both hands. The hardest moves are when you first transition onto the steeper wall from the slab. The higher you go, the steeper it gets. As the pump builds, don't forget to stem!

Location

Left of Beta Male. Climb the lower angle corner clipping the bolt line to the left. After the 6th clip, angle right to go up the hanging dihedral.

Protection

12 clips, sport anchor

Photos

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Taylor Spiegelberg
Wyoming
 
Taylor Spiegelberg   Wyoming
 
The top chunk of this thing is some of the best 11 climbing around! Reminded me of a juggy, "Jesus Christ Super Jew!" Sep 30, 2017
Chris. T.  
 
Great route! It would be a classic if not for the first half of the route. The upper corner is fantastic, with great rock and fun climbing!
Big thanks to Mr. Snyder for developing another area of awesome routes! Sep 24, 2013