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Routes in Marmot Tower

Baby Steps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Book of Marmot, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Marmot that Ate New York, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maybe the Marmot Ate Your Baby T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
One Toprope TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raymond Goes Climbing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Toprope TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Morin, Matt Clark, K. Stricker, S. Bonfiglio, 07/12
Page Views: 2,333 total, 43/month
Shared By: ErikaNW on Jul 15, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Falcon Closures Details

Description

The crack starts wide and gradually tapers all the way to the bolted anchor. This has good stemming and lots of features on the right face if wide cracks are not your thing. It is a good beginner lead as it protects well - the new leader might appreciate having double #4s as well as a #5 cam.

Location

Follow the gully on the west side of The Dungeon to near the top of the drainage - Marmot Tower will be on your left to the west. The climb is the obvious wide crack near the southeast base, look for the bolted anchor just below the giant roof.

Protection

2 bolt anchor with rap rings, SR + large cams (#4, and #5).

Photos

Chris Ilg
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Ilg   Boulder, CO
 
I tend to agree with Noah. I would not put a first time trad leader on this route. IMHO this is a 5.6+ route. The "+" for being sustained at 5.6. The route does sew up nicely, but you will need a couple of large pieces (#4.5 Camalot) for the bottom half. Perfect hand jams near the top! Jun 27, 2017
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
Not 5.5. Not for beginners. Do not attempt without at least two #4s and a #5.

There's a #10 DMM Offset up there with a biner on it. If you happen to retrieve them, enjoy. Mar 19, 2017
Jeremy C
Golden, CO
  5.5
Jeremy C   Golden, CO
  5.5
Fun little spot. 2 or 3 stars for the grade/area. The crack doesn't start to get super cool until the last few moves. Easy to protect wherever you decide that you want protection along the way. This would be a good first lead for the aspiring trad leader as long as you have a few larger pieces. Oct 13, 2013
Really nice climb. It has a little bit of everything. Big cams are going to make the leader feel a little safer. The trail up is pretty sparse in places. We just bush whacked up. You can't miss Marmot Tower. Get on it!

Can be toproped with a 60 meter from the bolted anchor. Aug 14, 2013