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Routes in Eddie's High Somewhere

Black Mamba T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Future Artifacts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Title Track, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dave Littman, Eric Salmi 2009
Page Views: 1,019 total, 19/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Jul 15, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

AKA: Eddies High Somewhere This route was a real score for the first ascent party. Ground up, onsight, all free. It is a fun traditional romp up the center of the Eddie's High Somewhere formation.

Pitch 1: Begin in the center of the wall below a left facing corner/chimney. Climb up the corner treading lightly over the pasted blocks at the bottom. Near the top of the pitch there is a stack on the right that also requires care but can be avoided by holds out left. This pitch is fun and better than it sounds. Belay on a nice ledge at a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8, 80'’.

Pitch 2: Climb a clean splitter hand crack. Belay on a large sloping green ledge at a 2 bolt belay. 5.9, 90'’.

Pitch 3: Move to the right across the ledge and up a wide crack/chimney using TCU’s in horizontals for pro. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor near the top of the formation. 5.7, 90'’.

Descent: Rappel the route or walk off.

Protection

Single rack to a #3 Camalot. Doubles in the hand sizes may be nice.
60 meter rope.
Helmet.

Photos

matt evans
salt lake city, UT
  5.9
matt evans   salt lake city, UT
  5.9
Fun route. I had my eyes fixed on the splitter up pitch #2 so I ended up climbing the crack system just below it for the first pitch. It takes gear well, has a fun challenging bulge to get around (go left of the bulge!), but it's dirty and needs traffic. I'd rate it a 5.9+. Pitch #2 was a tricky 5.9 too. The rock is superb and I will definitely be returning to do some of the pitches on the main wall, iron Hayden. Jul 28, 2013