Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Pat Rinehart, Jason Moncreiff
Page Views: 667 total · 9/month
Shared By: shad O'Neel on Jul 14, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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This is one of the best moderate routes around! I remember climbing it in the late 90s, thinking it was a great 5.7 since you could clip bolts between gear placements. Unbeknownst to me at the time, the whole area was just being developed. The route seems 5.8, not at all 5.9 as listed in the first edition guidebook. For all the moderate rock climbers out there, this one is GOOD. It is long, and for the most part great rock.

From the tree, follow the easy corner up and left to the first bolt. Continue working up the beautiful slab, laced with step-up ledges and finger cracks to the 2-bolt/chain anchors at the top. Bring some cams (we used 2 small pieces) to fill in the gaps between the well-placed bolts.


The route is located up and right from the top of the approach 'trail', and found by scrambling 15' up a well-worn approach to the large spruce tree.


8 or so bolts, supplemented easily with cams.

A 70m or double rope rap is needed to get all the way down with some very easy down climbing for about 10ft. Or, do as others before and rap to the ledge, then rap to the ground off the first bolt.....

new two bolt anchor on 3/13/2018, Still no two bolt anchor above the tree. Drugs are bad m'kay!


Nick Weicht
Valdez, AK
Nick Weicht   Valdez, AK
There is a two bolt belay station located 40' up and left from the base of the spruce tree. Jul 13, 2014
Charles O
Oklahoma City
Charles O   Oklahoma City
Do not get confused as this sites location and directions of the route are different. this route goes to the left of the spruce and there's a bolt about 35 feet up. don't be tempted to take the route to the right as its a 5.10b unless you're comfortable climbing that with a mix of sport and trad. Apr 4, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
this route is more like 37 meters, don't expect to get down on a 70m rope without down climbing, it's not going to happen. Also not sure about the belay station Nick is talking about? I couldn't find it, you can belay a top rope off some gear about 15 feet up. Jun 28, 2015
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Can be safely lead on just gear if that's your thing. Bring some thin stuff, fingers and a hand size or two. Jun 28, 2015
Hard to miss the two bolts just above the tree. If you have a full 70 m rope you make it down with about 6 feet of down climbing. No big deal. If you can climb up it, you can climb down it, right? Jul 25, 2015
Beware the guidebook does not mention you need a double rope to rap. I did not see the two bolt belay Nick mentions. It would be possible but a bit sketchy with a 70m because it would not bring you all the way to the spruce tree. I used the two rap bolts for an anchor to bring my second up, and then protected the last bit over the edge using a less than bomber anchor off a couple baby aspens. Used 3 nuts for extra pro along the way. Excellent long slab climb, but bring a rap rope. May 31, 2018