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Routes in Ravine Lake Main Walls

Between The Lines S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breaking Ground T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bunk N' Straddle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Thirty Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bunk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gray Mountain Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Health Project T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Notorious Corner T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Notoriously Outspoken S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Perfect storm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Powerbag S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ragged Top T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slapback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smoking Coconut T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Soft Rock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spice World S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Star Bright T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Light T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Cracks T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Y2K Letdown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zig Zag Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Pat Rinehart, Jason Moncreiff
Page Views: 504 total · 9/month
Shared By: shad O'Neel on Jul 14, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

This is one of the best moderate routes around! I remember climbing it in the late 90s, thinking it was a great 5.7 since you could clip bolts between gear placements. Unbeknownst to me at the time, the whole area was just being developed. The route seems 5.8, not at all 5.9 as listed in the first edition guidebook. For all the moderate rock climbers out there, this one is GOOD. It is long, and for the most part great rock.

From the tree, follow the easy corner up and left to the first bolt. Continue working up the beautiful slab, laced with step-up ledges and finger cracks to the 2-bolt/chain anchors at the top. Bring some cams (we used 2 small pieces) to fill in the gaps between the well-placed bolts.

Location [Edit]

The route is located up and right from the top of the approach 'trail', and found by scrambling 15' up a well-worn approach to the large spruce tree.

Protection [Edit]

8 or so bolts, supplemented easily with cams.

A 70m or double rope rap is needed to get all the way down. Or, do as others before and rap to the ledge, then rap to the ground off the first bolt.....

new two bolt anchor on 3/13/2018, Still no two bolt anchor above the tree. Drugs are bad m'kay! 

Photos

Nick Weicht
Valdez, AK
 
Nick Weicht   Valdez, AK
 
There is a two bolt belay station located 40' up and left from the base of the spruce tree. Jul 13, 2014
Adam Password
Timbuktu
Adam Password   Timbuktu
Do not get confused as this sites location and directions of the route are different. this route goes to the left of the spruce and there's a bolt about 35 feet up. don't be tempted to take the route to the right as its a 5.10b unless you're comfortable climbing that with a mix of sport and trad. Apr 4, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.8+
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.8+
this route is more like 37 meters, don't expect to get down on a 70m rope without down climbing, it's not going to happen. Also not sure about the belay station Nick is talking about? I couldn't find it, you can belay a top rope off some gear about 15 feet up. Jun 28, 2015
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
  5.8+
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
  5.8+
Can be safely lead on just gear if that's your thing. Bring some thin stuff, fingers and a hand size or two. Jun 28, 2015
Hard to miss the two bolts just above the tree. If you have a full 70 m rope you make it down with about 6 feet of down climbing. No big deal. If you can climb up it, you can climb down it, right? Jul 25, 2015

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