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Routes in Bee Gorge South Wall

14: Qibu ("The Start") S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
1: 30 and 60 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3: "Bizi" ("The Nose") S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
6: Unnamed ["The Grungy Cave"] T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sanbu ("Three Step") T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed ["Jam n' Run"] T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 18 ft
FA: CMDI, 2007
Page Views: 85 total · 1/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A nice route for trad leaders looking to break into the solid .10 grades. The crux is fairly short and straightforward. If things get too wiggy, you can always jump to the bolts...

Start at the section of wall that flares out to the right of the start of The Grungy Cave. Climb straight up a shallow corner before moving left halfway up the route. The short traverse under the small bulge will be the crux of the route (fairly short). Climb straight up to a large, dirt-covered ledge.

WARNING: Double-check what you are standing on once you reach the final ledge where the anchor is located! There are some loose rocks concealed by the dirt that might be let loose down the face! My follower stood on what she thought was a clump of dirt only to send a toaster-sized rock flying down the route...

Protection

6 bolts + anchor

If you elect to go the trad route (I did), cams to 2" will suffice. I found the gear to be on the small side.

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