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Routes in Bee Gorge South Wall

14: Qibu ("The Start") S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
1: 30 and 60 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3: "Bizi" ("The Nose") S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
6: Unnamed ["The Grungy Cave"] T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sanbu ("Three Step") T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed ["Jam n' Run"] T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: (November 2004) Xiao He, Huang Mohai Bolts: Xiao He, Huang Mohai, Wang Zhuo
Page Views: 242 total, 5/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

This route is a strong contender for the best route in Bee Gorge. The bottom ‘first pitch’ is a bit sandy and loose, but the splitter dihedral crack above is steep, exposed, sustained, strenuous, and glorious for the grade.

This route will have you thrilled from start to finish.

Pitch 1: Trend diagonally up and right following a bolt line (unnecessary as the route will take gear) until you hit ledge-y terrain. Continue directly upward to the large ledge with bolts. You can stop and belay here or continue on to pitch 2 (70m rope required).

Pitch 2: Follow the clean splitter dihedral crack at the left end of the ledge. The pitch is steep and sustained from the get-go. Jam and stem until you have Elvis-leg. Some small cracks will appear outside the main crack higher up. You will encounter the crux up high, in-view of the bolts. Follow the crack until you are underneath the obvious roof. There will be bolts to your right.

Note: This climb could easily climb to the top of the cliff, though I believe it is not part of the current route. Doing so would encourage a belay at the end of pitch 1.

Descent: With a 70m rope, clip the chains and lower off. Otherwise, it will take 2 raps to descend from the current route’s finish.

Notes:

- The original rating gives pitch 1 a 5.8 A1 and pitch 2 a 5.9 rating, which seems bizarre. The bottom of the route is free-able at almost any logical point of climbing, the hardest being the alternative seam "Bizi" ("The Nose"), which goes at 5.11 (also on MP), so the standard line is a 5.8, in my opinion, and nothing more. Given the sustained nature of the dihedral, I would put the rating at .10a. Stances are increasingly strenuous the higher you get.

- As far as I know, the roof has not yet been climbed!The roof has yet to be climbed, but it looks featured enough that a bottom-to-top route doesn't seem unreasonable. That being said, the roof section is a bit long. Trad hasn't proliferated into China very broadly, so many of the routes I have encountered always stop short of the top in favor of bolted anchors. Go get this awesome finish!

Location

Eastern most side of the South Wall.

Protection

- BD nuts (4-13)
- Cams to 3"
- 8 shoulder length runners
- 2 double-length runners
- Extra lockers, cordelette, anchor equipment etc.

Photos

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