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Routes in Sweet Sandstone

Devastation Gully T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock 'n Rock Roof T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sweet Sandstone T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 669 total, 13/month
Shared By: kevinthediltz on Jul 12, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This has technical slabbing on flaky crimps and sideclings.

Location

This is the only bolted route on the wall. You can't miss it.

Protection

5 bolts and a few cams up top unless you run it out.

Photos

The fourth bolt on this climb is VERY loose! Oct 3, 2017
Moves off the ground and through the vertical section are super fun! Be prepared for some crumbly, sandy and flaky sections, especially during the decently run out bit to the last bolt before the crack. 2 bolts for anchors up top, the right bolt is placed in slightly hollow/echoing rock. A bit awkward to belay from the top but probably best due to TR drag--someone will have to walk off anyway, or leave gear to rappel. It might be possible to find a somewhat comfy sitting stance to manage a direct belay. Watch out for two cooler-sized loose blocks just to the left of the anchor bolts as you come up and over to them. Walk-off back to the base of the route, if you head up and left from the anchor past the junipers and then arc around back and to the right down a slab and then back down a little gully. Jun 19, 2014
knowbuddy Buddy
  5.11+
knowbuddy Buddy  
  5.11+
This route is fucking sweet. Super technical face climbing leads to a crux move through a small bulge. It's a little runout after you pull the crux, because you don't have a good clipping stance for a minute. Amazingly fun route that you can't be too physical with. Nov 4, 2013
Narwhal Lo
Durango, CO
 
Narwhal Lo   Durango, CO
 
One of the anchor bolts is in a hollow sounding section of soft sandstone. Bad rope drag at the top for lowering or top rope. Otherwise the route is runout at the top half where a fall would result in a long slide or hitting a sloping ledge. 5 bolts. Sep 26, 2013