Type: Sport, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Barrett, Bob Ordner and Rusty Baille 2009.
Page Views: 1,009 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chris Doll on Jul 12, 2013 with updates from Nick Sweeney and 1 other
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route can be done in one pitch but there will be significant rope drag.

First Pitch: Starts off with low grade slab climbing then gradually gets steeper at the crux before turning left and heading towards the chains.

Second Pitch: Climb up the 3 bolt chimney while trying to avoid getting stuck in it. The chains are at the top of the chimney, or you can scramble up a bit further to another set of chains that can be rappelled off.

Optional summit pitch: with a 70m rope, you can continue to the summit and rappel off the bolts above "Northern Aggression" (60m rope will not reach the ground).

Location

The obvious large chimney that runs up the southwest corner of the Big Rock

Protection

5 bolts on the bottom section with rapel rings and an anchor station. 3 bolts in the chimney with your choice of chains on the chimney section.

Photos

applewood
Tonasket, WA
  5.7
applewood   Tonasket, WA
  5.7
My daughter and I did this route as one long pitch last weekend (maybe 160'). I skipped a few bolts and used longer slings on a couple to reduce rope drag, but it was fun with no real drag. We continued to the top with a 2nd long pitch (5.1 and maybe 180') which was the most fun. It needed a couple of cams as well as the lone bolt I found, and the long runouts and wind gave it an alpine feel. I think the main route would benefit from some rebolting to straighten the line some and eliminate unnecessary placements, as the chimney is well worth doing. Jul 23, 2014