Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Thrbjorn Enevold and Trond Solberg 1999|
|Page Views:||209 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Williams on Jul 10, 2013|
DescriptionI won't give this route an R rating since I've never seen it described that way. It would not receive an R rating in North Carolina, but it probably would in newer climbing areas. It is protectable, but it is also serious. The newest guide describes it as "altogether a more memorable and scary experience [compared to Dr. Jekyll]."
The route starts below a few faint flakes that lead to a chunk of quartz. Climb to this and then head right over some obvious water streaks, using a this crack for protection. 5.10. Belay at the large dish on the right (bring big wires or cams for belay).
The second pitch heads back left. A bolt protects the tricky traverse out onto the face and then a thin seam/flake is all you get. The climbing is sustained and the protection is very thin and spaced. Bring brass offsets or microwires and a few Aliens. Ball nuts might be useful. 5.10+.
Use the same bolted belay as Dr. Jekyll. Abseil descent.