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Routes in King Pin

Conn Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Laptad-Prince route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organized Crime S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quartz Jester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dick Laptad and Sue Prince, late 1960's
Page Views: 643 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Jul 9, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Follow gully between King Pin and Queen Pin to its highest point where you can step right onto King Pin. Execute 5.7 slab traverse to the first bolt (protectable with pro). Climb face to summit. Nice route to the summit of King Pin with some interesting movement.


The route starts in the gully between the King Pin and Queen Pin, 10 feet left from the overhanging crack of Quartz Jester.


Few medium nuts and small (~ .5 c4) cams to protect the traverse to the first bolt. 5 quickdraws. Anchors at the top. Single 60m rope gets you down.


Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
I climbed this route a number of years ago. I don't remember there being five bolts on it, if any. Five bolts is not Doc Laptad's style. Paul Piana makes no mention of any bolts on this route in "Touch the Sky" likewise (he tends to be very accurate in bolt and piton counts in his descriptions). I suspect someone didn't do thier homework and added bolts to an existing route. We better call Henry Barber... Jul 11, 2013
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
My memory on this is hazy but I don't recall any bolts either, and I agree that five bolts was nowhere near something the Laptad would have done at the time with a hammer and hand drill. Offhand, I can't think of a route in the Needles in those days that had more than two bolts (e.g. Hairy Pin had two). Feb 10, 2017
Kris Gorny    
Re-reading the comments under Organized Crime, I think I was actually providing adescription for Organized Crime, mistaking it for Laptad Prince. My bad -- will take it down. Thank you for your comments, guys! Feb 12, 2017

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