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Routes in Tradistan Tower

Better Lucky Than Good T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Da Cherry on Top! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Cherry For Old Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Country For Old Men T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nuggernaut T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thundercats are Go! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: ED, JSM
Page Views: 826 total, 16/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jul 9, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The route starts in the same dihedral as for Nuggernaut, then it moves out right and follows a series of cracks and corners to the top of Tradistan Tower. The rock quality and protection are surprisingly good. All belays are at good comfortable ledges. It is a nice, moderate outing with an adventurous feel and great views. Pitch lengths, ratings, and details are described the best as I can remember.

P1: Start up the same left-facing dihedral as for Nuggernaut and climb it for about 75' to a belay at a tree out right on a large ledge (~75', 5.8).

P2: Scramble up and right over a few loose blocks and climb a small corner. At the corner's top, traverse right passing under a ^ shaped roof, and do an exposed step right to a ledge and belay (~75', 5.7).

P3: Climb the face, pull a small bulge, and continue into a small corner that leads to a large ledge with a tree (~75', 5.7).

P4: Climb nondescript terrain following cracks and corners to the next large ledge with a tree (~150', 5.6).

P5: Continue up more cracks and corners to the next large ledge and belay below a large tree in a corner with a chockstone above (~175', 5.6).

P6: Climb the corner/groove past the tree and under the chockstone. Continue up and right on easy ledges (some loose blocks through here), and belay at a ledge (~175', 5.6).

P7: Move the belay left, to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the fist to finger-sized corner to the summit (~50', 5.7).

Descent: 5 rappels to get down. Find the summit cairn and look for another cairn down SE-ish and a semi-hidden bolted anchor. (1) Do a single rope rappel (15m) to a tree with slings. (2) Do a double rope rappel (61m) to another tree with slings. (3) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to a bolt/fixed nut anchor. (4) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to two bolts on a large ledge. (5) Do a double rope rappel (50m) to the base of Nuggernaut.

Location

Follow the approach trail to the base. Start in the same dihedral as for Nuggernaut.

Protection

(2) green Alien - #3 Camalot
(1) set of Stoppers
(2) 60m ropes.

Photos

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