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Routes in Chaos Buttress

B-1 Bomber Dude S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil Cheese Weiner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sloppy Seconds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Time Machine Yogi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Wendling
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

Thin and technical slab climbing for much of the route keeps you on your toes, quite literally. Start up the first two bolts of B-1 Bomber Dude and then cut slightly left on small, shallow finger pockets and edges in the dark, sharp rock to a good rest at the horizontal break below the bulge above.
Bust through the moves and enjoy a slightly run-out but easier section to the anchors. The anchors are in need of additional screw links, 'biners or chain.

Location

Furthest left route on the Chaos Buttress but starts on B-1 Bomber Dude.

Protection

9 bolts to an annoying anchor setup. Unless more screw links or biners are added to this anchor, it's best to traverse right to the chains on the other route.

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
As of July 2013 the anchors could use two additional screwlinks or leaver 'biners. As the setup was then, your rope would be crazy coiled if you lowered through the anchors. I traversed right to the anchors for B-1 Bomber Dude instead. Jul 9, 2013

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