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Routes in Stonewall (aka Airmen Peak)

(01) Chicken Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
(02) Pin There, Done That? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
(03) Squeeze Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(04) Pardon Me While I Stem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
(05) Stoner Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
(06) Pagoda Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(07) Cody Wasn't Here T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
(08) Flyboys T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(09) Chimney Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(10) Stembrosia T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
(11) A Comedy of Scarers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
(12) Oh Yeah, That Snake! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Sarah T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Why Wouldn'tya? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: JFx, AS, JMw 3/2013
Page Views: 352 total, 7/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

1. A bolt protects the first move which leads up to the crack that runs out the right side of the overhang above. The OW awaits at the lip of the roof. Belay at the horizontal below a short bulge with another OW. (5.10 110')

2. Head up and right into main chimney. Shortly after you get wedged, traverse to the outside and clip a bolt that protects the rest of the chimney that gradually eases. The final rampy corner is a little trickier than it looks. Belay from 2 bolts at the end of the corner. (5.8+ 110')

DESCENT: Rap 200' to the ground from the 2 bolts with double 60M ropes. If you only take a single rope you can downclimb the 4th class gully mentioned below.

Location

Near the right end of the South Face of Stonewall (See approach picture). Several hundred feet left of a 3rd/4th class gully that leads to the top.

Protection

Stoppers, doubles to #2, #3 thru #6 (We didn't have one but a #7 or equivalent Big Bro would be even better than the #6!)

Double 60M ropes (if you rap.)

Photos

JFox
Cottonwood
  5.9+ PG13
JFox   Cottonwood
  5.9+ PG13
Real good route. a little over bolted. But still a good, trad, offwidthy, exposedy, kind of back country adventurous route Jul 9, 2013